Over the hills, under the moon - and off the beaten path

Who ARE our neighbors here on Cap Ferrat? Actually, these days, you don't find movie stars or glitzy celebrities - just the garden variety of usually Eastern European billionaires (with Paul Allen of Microsoft as one of the few Western exceptions). And, yes, President Putin of Russia, should, as far as the locals know, own one of the secluded palaces. No one knows exactly where it is.  Or they will not tell. When you're living on the Cap, you appreciate discretion! In the old days it used to be different and one of the few houses, which are actually visible from the outside, has experienced all the glitz you can dream of. The Fleur du Cap, lying just next to the bay, was once owned by Chaplin, and later, for many years, it was the home of the British actor David Niven. Standing on the small beach just next to the house, you can easily imagine the marvelous Old Hollywood parties, which have taken place over the years. Another famous and e...

The last week has been like a jump through a rabbit hole. A few days ago, we lived in Paris, in the poor, black neighborhood of Goutte d'Or. And now - here we are - living on Cap Ferrat, the peninsula of the billionaires, where the property value is supposed to be the highest in the entire world next to Monaco. While our neighbors in the Parisian 'Little Africa' were up close and personal, filling the alleys, the cafes, and the open-air markets, the extreme richness of the Cap is very much more secluded. Discretion is key on the Cap, and as an example, you don't see any Lamborghinis or Ferraris in the streets as you would in Saint Tropez, where the less wealthy (and much more flamboyant) playboys are hanging out. If the billionaires on the Cap are collecting expensive automobiles, they might be stowed away in some underground garages - and you can't get any idea of the life being lived in the villas, as they are completely hidden on vast grounds beh...

There are so many places to see in Paris, but the months of July and August are not the season for music venues, galleries, and crowded local bars, as many Parisians have left the city for the summer. We did explore some and here are a few of our best finds, even though many were pretty empty compared to how they will be this coming autumn and winter. The north One marvelous, huge arts center we happened to pass by was the Le Centquatre in Rue Curial. It was almost empty when we visited, but the industrial-type architecture is impressive even without the throngs of visitors, which, we were told,  are filling the building during the non-summer months. La REcyclerie in the former Gare Ornano at the Porte de Clignancourt is situated at the absolute perimeter of the touristic Paris, but it is well worth a visit - and not only for eco-warriors and the globally conscious. Here everything is - yes - recycled and you can...