Bossa nova behind baricades

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Some of our experiences here in Rio are like stepping between the most beautiful and the worst.

Like it was today, when we arrived at Centro, the city center, and saw rows of torched and burned out city buses and lots of smashed up shop windows after a night of violent demonstrations.



Thousands had been protesting against government plans for cuts by making a general strike during the day - and during the night mayhem had beset the streets and police had thrown tear gas and  had been shooting on protesters with rubber bullets

 
Photo: Reuters & AP

Even when we passed through the area at noon, many hours later, armed policemen patrolled the streets and cleaned up the barricades, which were put up by the protesters during the night.



And then - in the midst of the devastation - we found a picturesque alley, Arco de Teles, where we were attracted by the sound of distant, gentle bossa nova

It was a strange feeling to walk from the remains of what could almost look like a war zone  and pass through  the arch to enter a cobbled alley, where we felt like time had stood still.



The bottom of the alley was filled with small tables and chairs, where a couple of hundred cariocas were seated. The chubby, friendly host came out and crammed in yet another table for us - and he saw to it that our glasses were filled  with cool and refreshing beer.

And for some hours we sat there, listening to the music of gentle bossa nova,

Um cantinho, um violão
Esse amor, uma canção
Pra fazer feliz a quem se ama

The beautiful words and sounds of Tom Jobims Corcovado felt like silk

I who was lost and lonely
Believing life was only a bitter tragic joke
Have found with you the meaning of existence oh, my love
This is where to be
Here with you so close to me
Till the final flicker of life's ember

We swayed and danced in that small alley with all the other happy guests - until it was time to leave and we reentered the police barricades, leaving behind a small secluded pocket of timeless love.









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