Camping on the rim of eternity
I'm sitting in what is called 'Paradise Valley' way up in the mountains north of Nuuk. Ahead lies the fiord with its floating icebergs and the possibility of seeing the occasional sprout from a humpback whale. You have to look at one spot for seven minutes - the time they are submerged - before you might see it. I have watched and watched, but no luck yet! Beyond the water lies the flat Akia ('the north land') with its thousands of small islands stretching out towards the Davis Strait. To the other side rises the vast Sermitsiaq. The morning fog covers most of the mountain and only the jagged top is visible - like a floating island way up in the sky. The world is still, but not silent. Small sparrows are twittering and the stream next to my campsite is almost roaring. The stillness is in the air. Not the tiniest breeze comes from this gigantic, endless landscape in front of me. And there are no signs of any humans. Just a stunning, almost incomprehensibl...